Headhunter descendants fight through ecotourism to preserve endangered wildlife. More than anywhere in Asia, the people of Sabah understand the threats to their endemic species. The last male Sumatran rhino has died, one lonely female may rescue the species from extinction. Orangutans are trained to live in the wild by human nannies - how much wild remains to be seen, as palm oil plantations spread their monoculture throughout Borneo. But the art on the walls and pillars of Kota Kinabalu remind us that there are people who care, who convert graffiti blight into educational art.